Category: 2_Free State / Vrystaat

My Home Province in South Africa

  • Ladies of Stone

    Ladies of Stone

    (a repost from my ‘wayback machine!’ – updated)

    Way back in high school we spent a night in an old sparsely furnished Drakensberg farmhouse with no ceilings and a tin roof.

    We – I think Leon Crawley, Tuffy Joubert & Piet Steyl were there – maybe we accompanied Klein Kerneels Retief? It was his Dad Kerneels’ winter grazing farm below Oliviershoek Pass and we schoolboys stayed overnight.

    Adventure! The skies were overcast and soon there were deep rumblings and flashes of lightning. A heavy rain started falling followed by hailstones. The Drakensberg storm built up until it was a roar and we couldn’t hear each other at all – not even shouting into your ear from an inch away was audible above the intimidating tinroof fandango. We jumped a foot high when a massive crack of thunder clapped half a millimetre above the roof apex. The loudest heavenly bang I’d ever heard in my larf!

    The next day we explored the soaked veld and ouhout thickets above the house in glorious sunshine, and came across a well-endowed woman lying naked on a huge stone in the woods! Stunning! She sported huge shapely boobs and was a wonder for the eyes of lustful teenagers. She was gorgeous! OK, she was made of stone, but hey, what else did we have? Come to think of it, Klein Kerneels couldn’t have been with us, as the Lady of Stone was a big surprise “discovery” to us, and he’d have known about her.

    I have often thought of our stay on that farm, which I later learnt was named Sungubala, and of the voluptuous stone lady over the years. I started thinking I may have imagined her, but then I read of the stone carvings of the Drakensberg and determined to go and find her.

    On the Detective Trail – I took the kids Jessica, Tommy and friend Sindi, and we stayed at The Cavern, lovely old-style ‘Berg hotel. They loved it. Luxury! Dad’s not camping!?

    The Cavern-001
    Beautiful things in the hotel grounds – also flowers

    Asking around, one of their guides said he knew where my statue was and he’d take me there. I packed a rucksack, he packed lunch and off we went for the day, leaving the kids behind. They could not WAIT for me to GO, DAD! as they had discovered an amazing secret: If you gave any hotel employee your room number he or she would give you anything you wanted under the sun. They had discovered the key to endless riches and had no further need for a Dad.

    When my guide and I got to the little valley in the foothills where he said the statue was , it didn’t look right. It didn’t feel like the place I remembered from – uh, 40yrs ago. But there she was: A maiden with luscious boobs carved in stone.

    Cavern upright Statue (small)
    But this lady was standing up, not lying down on a rock in a seductive pose. There is another statue, I told him. This is not the statue I saw. Its beautiful, and thank you, but she is not the lady of my vivid and fond mammaries and my dreams. Ah! He knew where the other one was. He had seen it once. But it was on private property and he couldn’t take me there. Back at the hotel I asked around, and they showed me a picture, framed and hanging on a wall.

    And there she was, exactly as I remembered her. I had not been hallucinating. Here was proof of my excellent memory, my sanity and my dodgy taste.

    Cavern reclining Statue (small)
    Well, almost exactly. Um, I must confess I did NOT notice that she had wings back then, nor that she had clothing. I was remembering naked with bunnytail more than dressed with wings. Hey, Teenage Testosterone! Vrystaat! 1970! No internet! Very few Playboy magazines! Cut me some slack here! It was a lekker memory, and – like many of our memories – the years had enhanced it; airbrushed it.

    Here’s a more recent pic from toplodge.co.za – (btw, their cottages look terrific).

    ~o0o~

    The Story of the Stone Ladies – a tale was told of a reclusive sculptor who fell in love with a trader’s daughter and sculpted these rocks in homage to her. She was a Coventry. We had the lovely Coventry twins Glenda & Glynis in Harrismith who came from a Drakensberg trading family. And I think I see a resemblance . . .

    ~o0o~

    Later I found this in a book by Rowan Philp, Rediscovering South Africa: A Wayward Guide.
    “There are two boulders hidden deep in a Drakensberg forest which tell a near-Shakespearean tale of obsession, genius, and revenge. Completely unsign-posted, they feature magnificent, life-size sculptures of the same nude, full-breasted woman, painstakingly carved by her lover fifty years ago. The story begins when Willie Chalmers, a wandering artist with a wildly unkempt beard, came to the area from the Kalahari in the 1930’s to learn more about Bushman paintings from a farmer’s daughter, Doreen Coventry. He fell in love with her and spent fourteen months carving her likeness into a flat sandstone rock on her farm, adding a halo and the face of a child alongside. He called it Spirit of the Woods.

    But some of his younger in-laws saw him as a con man and a parasite at the family homestead, and at the height of the row, Coventry’s nephew hiked up to the sculpture in a rage and smashed off the nose. So, some say, Chalmers began a second Spirit of the Woods, this time in a secret location almost completely enclosed by other boulders, sometimes working for weeks without a break.”

    ~o0o~

    ouhout – Leucosidea sericea; mountain shrub and tree

    lekker memory – lovely memory from school days

    ~o0o~

    Here’s a wonderful description of this special place from my good schooldays friend Luisa Blignaut, now ‘down under,’ who knew the farm well, and clearly loved it:

    Sungubala used to belong to Kerneels Retief. He granted my father, Koos Blignaut, the right to use the farm in the 1970’s. I spent many a weekend and week or two on the farm in a house with no ceiling, no electricity and no toilet. We used a long-drop in a zinc structure outside the house. At night I always had to accompany my mother to the long drop. It was funny because she was armed with insect repellant spray. I sprayed the roof and walls of the outhouse with insect repellant spray before she entered it. Dead goggas, galore, fell down from their perches. My mom was scared that a snake may be lurking in the long drop and I had to make sure no snakes were about. Then I waited outside while she did ablutions  The farm supervisor’s son killed the biggest puffadder I have ever seen near the house. Longer than a meter. That did it for my mother. Everything had to be checked for snakes. There was a small wood or coal burning Aga stove in the kitchen. Water came via a pipe from a stream above the house. We attached a funnel with mesh wire at the end of the pipe. Secured it with rocks in the stream. The pipe ran downhill for about a 100m to a tank just above the house. A fire under a further drum outside the house provided warm water. We swam in a pool under a waterfall near the Silent Woman (we called her the Paw-paw lady). But why, oh why, did you build a blue pool. It detracts from everything the place is about. The solar heating you installed is fantastic. Thunder storms at night were truly memorable. We smelled the Sulphur following thunder clap after thunder clap. In my mind, the house shook. The sound of violent raindrops on the corrugated zinc roof drowned any attempted conversation. We could not hear each other. Lightning lit up the inside of the house and I saw the big white eyes of my friends fearing that the next lightning strike would take out the house. The thunder claps were followed by echoes running along the mountain faces, to and fro, again and again, like harmonics in music. And just as it was fading, the next thunder clap or two arrived. The closest I have come to it, is listening to the music of Xenakis at full blast. But beautiful! Get rid of the pool and encourage guests to find a mountain pool. I can think of several. And when the sweat cascades down your body in summer, the mountain water is simply delicious. So is drying yourself in the sun, stretched out on a comfortable rock.

    ~o0o~

  • Skandaal in our Dorp

    Skandaal in our Dorp

    Prester John of the Harrismith Engelse Kerk was a man about town.

    A MOTH, he frequented the MOTH Hall and knocked back many an ale seated at the bar. Anglicans are lucky. Like Catholics, they are allowed to booze. Unlike poor Methodists!

    It was also known – perhaps unbeknown to him – that he had a lover; a married lady from a different church; a church that frowned on booze.

    They met on the grounds of the defunct Presbyterian Church for their trysts. Was the church thus refunct?

    As far as is known he suffered no consequences for his philandering; he wasn’t defrocked; but secret nocturnal witnesses say she occasionally was.

    ~o0o~

    Ye Olde Original Prester John

    Prester John was a mythical Christian priest and king. Stories popular in Europe in the 12th to the 17th centuries told of a Nestorian patriarch and king who ruled over a Christian nation lost amid the pagans and Muslims in the Orient. These tall tales were often further embellished* with various tropes of medieval popular fantasy, depicting Prester John as a descendant of the Three Wise Men, ruling a kingdom full of riches, marvels, and strange creatures. The myth was used as one of the excuses for the murderous crusades.

    Like secret uranium, hidden weapons of mass destruction, drugs – there are always lies that can be told to justify attacks and the beginnings of wars. Instil fear, repeat the lies, and suddenly many people trust politicians and newspapers! without asking for any evidence. Wars are profitable, therefore wars MUST be started.

    *Sample embellishments: A Hebrew book of Ben-Sira was published in 1519 in Constantinople, and its appendix includes ‘a copy of the letter that Priesty Juan sent to the Pope in Rome’.

    The main theme is: In a very remote land there was a great king and Christian priest Prester John, who ruled over 72 countries rich in silver and gold. Many wonderful creatures lived there, such as men with horns on their foreheads and three eyes, women who fought while mounted on horses, men that lived 200 years, unicorns, etc.

    Ah, religion! So flexible. Never needing evidence. Ooh, a priest we invented is in trouble we hear! We’d better go on a murderous crusade to find him / rescue him (and his treasure)!

    ~~oo0oo~~

    Engelse kerk – Anglican church

  • Mom’s Grave Story

    Mom’s Grave Story

    Mom tells of walking with me in the Harrismith cemetery after putting flowers – roses – on the family graves, when we met a couple looking at graves.

    ‘Do you know where the graves of the Bains and Bells are?’ they asked. ‘We’ve just put flowers on them,’ said Mom, taking them to the graves.

    The lady gave Mom a little book of recommended reading which she read and thoroughly enjoyed. She remembers reading AJ Cronin, Lilian Beckwith, R. F. Delderfield; and especially, a story of a man trapped in a mine who had to cut off his arm to escape (by Cronin?).

  • Oh Shit, I got Annie’s Ankles!

    Oh Shit, I got Annie’s Ankles!

    I got her Watson Wattles (extra chins) long ago and endured the kids’ wobbling of them in ew!-y wonder.

    – Annie Watson Bain Bland – specs off for the glam shot –

    But her ankles? Didn’t expect that. Oh well, I spose if you keep living you gonna end up getting everything. Jy wil mos, as we used to say.

    ~~oo0oo~~

    Jy wil mos – sort of ‘Serves You Right’

  • Annie’s Consolation

    Annie’s Consolation

    Or: Moenie worry nie

    Or: There, their, they’re

    The big annual prize-giving took place in 1972 – my matric year – and I didn’t win a single trophy, cup, certificate or handshake. But I was not to worry, Annie insisted. Here’s the letter she wrote me from George in the Southern Cape where she spent the only three years of her ninety outside Harrismith:

    15th

    Have just received your mother’s letter, containing the report on school prize-giving. Good for you son – I’m very pleased with your results. I’m sure you are not upset about not winning a cup. Think of the bother of cleaning them. In any case you can always show off the Bland Racing Cups!   The heat here is horrific and no sign of rain.

    Love to all

    Annie

    Annie's letter to grandson Kosie

    So there! Who needs to win trophies anyway? Unless it’s for horseracing. That’s different and highly prized. Even if that sport may have contributed to losing the farm.

    I just love the characteristic unemotional, no-nonsense approach. That’s me Gran! Academics! Who needs them?

    The feature pic is Annie in George, looking queenish with matching twinset and corgi accessory.

    Annie at __'s wedding in George

    Here she is in George again round about the same time, in a dress and uncomfortable shoes cos it’s a wedding. Corgi at her feet. Not her corgi, mind you. She didn’t do animals, she played golf and drove motorcars. Also owned and ran a Caltex garage and a Volkswagen motorcar agency. At one time she sold 1200cc VW Beetles for R1199.

    I think these are the vaunted Bland trophies up on top of the cupboard in the dining room at 95 Stuart Street. Horse-racing! Now those are trophies worth polishing!

    Party gathering in the dining room at 95 Stuart Street Harrismith OFS. Hugo Wessels moustache; Sheila on Wikus de Bruyn's lap (Warden)

    Not personally, you understand – you get someone to polish them.

    ~~oo0oo~~

    After the farm was lost and circumstances were more frugal, Annie would say at the dinner table, gently mocking: ‘I still ring the bell, then I get up and fetch it myself.’

    ~~oo0oo~~

    Moenie worry nie – tut tut

  • Uncle Hec and Stoppit

    Uncle Hec and Stoppit

    I saw this pic . .

    . . and I thought of Hector Fyvie when he and Tabs got a new dog called Rocket on Gailian.

    “Stoppit Rocket,” he would say repeatedly with a smile in his mild, friendly voice.

    And Uncle Hec just smiled again when we said, ‘This dog thinks its name is StoppitRockit.

    ~~oo0oo~~

  • Methodist Organ Grinders

    Methodist Organ Grinders

    I often say My Mom Mary played the organ in the Harrismith Methodist Church for a hundred years and I had to go to church twice every Sunday for all those years and more.

    I exaggerate.

    Her predecessor, Uncle Wright Liddell actually played for longer than she did, and he was the organist for sixty three years. I’m not sure how long Mom was. A guess: Uncle Wright died in 1967, so it was before that that he pulled Mary aside and said I want you to take over from me. So if Mary played and sang from ’67 to ’97 it was thirty years. I must ask her. Mom said he told her, ‘playing the organ is different to the piano; slide your hands over the keys.’

    Here’s Uncle Wright when he was little – out at Witsieshoek at a wedding. He’s the liddellest Liddell seated on the steps front right.

    The pic is from the lovely story of the Cronjes of Witsieshoek. Mom always spoke of Corrie and Len Cronje. She says her Mom Annie and Rosalie Cronje were great friends.

    Corrie’s daughter Liz Groves-Finnie has written the family story. If you want to read it, write to her at lizfinnie (at) g mail.com – she’ll tell you where you can read it.

    ~~oo0oo~~

    With all those Liddells, it’s only right that the middle row was called middell, innit?

  • Lamborghini Boere

    Lamborghini Boere

    The O broers, Frik and his boet were legends in Welkom. They owned a large transport company and made serious money. Built like double-door refrigerators, they wore khaki. Khaki shirts, khaki shorts, khaki long socks and sturdy velskoens. Brown. En ‘n hoed.

    They also wore thick brown spectacle frames and tinted lenses. Safilo Elasta if you know frames. Tough. Heavy. Severe.

    The pinch-of-salt story was told how they walked into a car dealership in Joburg and asked to look at the cars. The poncy salesman took one look and decided those velskoens were not going to press the accelerator in his Lambos; and so he gave them short shrift. They asked to speak to the boss and bought matching yellow Lamborghinis from him. Paid cash, of course.

    Well, I don’t know exact facts, but I certainly saw one of the Lambos in Welkom. A lekker bright yellow one. One was parked right outside while I tested Frik’s eyes.

    Apparently they had a large fleet of trucks shipping coal to power stations. Maybe even to Newcastle. And they flew a helicopter or two. ‘They’ said. Some people just go big! Or Gaan Groot!

    lamborghini yellow
    – seen on the Welkom horseshoe – or maybe not –

    ~~oo0oo~~

    I checked the detail with my Welkom boss from back in 1978 and he said, in his laconic way, Yep, About Right.

    ~~oo0oo~~

    Other boere prefer different Lambos…

  • There was a Good Harry Smith

    There was a Good Harry Smith

    I don’t like Harry Smith, so make my bias obvious upfront. I have taken the things I dislike about him from some very interesting writings on him by Andrew L. Harington and Thomas Keegan. So this is not a one-eyed view; I believe it to be true as these fellas do their homework! Maybe his redeeming quality was his abiding love for his wife; and maybe the fact that he was just doing what the white supremacists who reigned at the time and who were his ‘bosses’ and his fellows, secretly or overtly actually wanted him to do.

    Henry Wakelyn Smith or, as his juniors sometimes called him behind his back, Hurry Wackalong Smite’s first entry into Grahamstown as governor of the Cape ‘was the greatest celebration the town had ever known. Triumphal arches and every means of decoration and salute that could be devised adorned the streets.’

    The white people of Grahamstown were welcoming one of the most villainous characters in South African history, renowned for his excitable nature, appalling temper and unfortunate habit of ferocious swearing. They were wanting him to lead the war against the Africans who lived there. Smith was, by all accounts, incredibly belittling and aggressive in his interaction with the native chiefs. Soon after arriving at the Cape in 1847, Smith announced himself as the ‘Paramount Chief’ and ‘father’ of all the Xhosa. Smith believed that, ‘The Kaffir, like every other barbarian, is a desponding creature; and, when, once subdued, easily kept subordinate.’ On a number of occasions Smith presented himself as an overly antagonistic bully. Upon his arrival on the docks at Port Elizabeth, he was greeted by hundreds of individuals who gathered to hear him speak. One of these was said to be Chief Maqoma of the Ngqika Xhosa – a general who had fought against Smith to great avail in the Sixth Frontier War of 1835. Upon seeing Maqoma, Smith apparently glared at the chief whilst half drawing his sword from his scabbard. After the speech, Maqoma was summoned by Smith and ordered to his knees. Smith lay his boot onto Maqoma’s neck and is claimed to have said, ‘This is to teach you that I am come hither to show Kaffirland that I am chief and master here.’ Later, in an incident wherein Chief Sandile offered to shake Smith’s hand, Smith ordered that he kiss his boots instead. He was also said to have torn up a piece of paper, symbolizing the treaty of 1835, in front of a gathering of Xhosa chiefs, and thereafter ordered these chiefs to once again kiss his boots.

    To this day we are are living the consequences of his – and many others’ – brutal arrogance.

    There’s a good Harry Smith?

    Wikipedia has four baseball Harry Smiths; six cricketer Harry Smiths, one who appeared to always bat number nine for Transvaal and South Africa, yet never bowled! Ten footballing Harry Smiths; And sundry others, one of whom I think was a good Harry Smith: Harry Leslie Smith, born in England in 1923 and died in Canada on 28 November 2018.

    My kind of Harry Smith tweeted common sense like this at the age of 92: If a dentist can afford to spend $50,000 to kill a lion, it tells me the rich aren’t taxed enough. #CecilTheLion http://t.co/8kKuzPRE0b — Harry Leslie Smith (@Harryslaststand) July 28, 2015 

    This Harry Smith was the son of a coalminer; he grew up in poverty after his father became unemployed. His sister Marion died of tuberculosis. When he was seven he was working as a barrow boy for a beer bottler in Bradford, supporting his entire family. They moved frequently and he spent time sleeping in workhouses. He joined the RAF, subsequently spending several years in Germany as part of the Allied occupation force. While there he met his future wife, Friede.

    Here’s Good Harry Smith’s decision to not honour ongoing warfare:

    https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/nov/08/poppy-last-time-remembrance-harry-leslie-smith

    Modest Circumstances

    SIR Harry Smith’s biographers will tell you he was also born in modest circumstances. However, there’s modest and modest: He was born in Whittlesea, Cambridgeshire in 1787, where his father was a surgeon. In 1805 he caught the eye of Brigadier-General Sir William Stewart, who made him an officer, immediately hugely improving his prospects.

    ~~o0o~~

    update: So I for one am happy to call my town by the old name for the mountain that makes the town what it is: Ntabazwe. And I’m happy for us to stop honouring Harry Smith.

    ~~o0o~~

    Here’s a kinder look at the soldier Harry Smith by Harrismith blogger Sandra of deoudehuizeyard.



  • Crafts – Early Attempt

    Crafts – Early Attempt

    Arts n Crafts were not I nie. I made a skinkbord in houtwerk and it was coming along nicely. I could envisage a gold OK maybe bronze medal at the Landbou Skou. One of those ribbons, a rosette, maybe a card saying ‘excellent dovetail joints’ or some such.

    Sanding was a pain tho, so when Giel wasn’t watching I gryp’d the belt sander and ‘sped things up.’

    Oops! That machine has quite a kick!  Varktap. End of my skinkbord!

    ~~oo0oo~~

    skinkbord – tea tray

    houtwerk – woodwork

    Landbou Skou – Agricultural show

    Giel – Heilige Giel, woodwork teacher, talent-spotting rugby coach and black Mercedes 190E owner

    gryp’d – grabbed, without permission

    Varktap – beyond repair